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Drinking
in France
The French have a fairly easy going relationship with alcohol.
Kids are introduced carefully to wine at family dinners rather
than by sneaking around. People will usually eat a good meal
when drinking and they generally don’t drink to get drunk.
Wine is drunk in restaurants and at home with the meal. In bars
people usually drink beer and spirits. It is possible in France
to buy a whole bottle of spirits over the bar at a fairly reasonable
price. The barman will provide you with as many glasses, ice
and mixers as you require and if you don’t finish it they
will write your name on the bottle and hold it for up to 12
months. Beer is usually tap (called pression) beer of the French
variety such as Kronenbourg or 1664. Heineken is also popular
and of course the ubiquitous Fosters. In the north there is
the interesting influence of Belgian beer and its many different
fruit flavours. In the south the big drink is pastis which is
an aniseed tasting liquor developed in Provence. It is clear,
but goes cloudy with the addition of water. Ricard is the biggest
selling brand along with Pernod and is really best left to the
crusty old black beret wearing types.
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French
wine regions:
Bordeaux, Bergerac, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne,
Languedoc-Roussillon, Cognac, Chablis, Sancerre, Armagnac
Wikipedia
article on French wine
Wines
of France website
Alsace
region official wine site
Bordeaux
area official wine site
Burgundy
wine official site
Champagne
region official wine site
Rhone Valley wine official site
Wine Lingo – talking a good
game
Cognac and Armagnac - both are brandy producing regions along
the central west coast of France, but most people have only
heard of Cognac. The French will tell you that the only difference
between the two is marketing and many in the know prefer Armagnac
over Cognac.
Champagne comes from the Champagne region otherwise it is sparkling
wine. Bordeaux comes from Bordeaux, Burgundy from Burgundy and
so on. |
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Cardonnay comes from Fountain Lakes and is not available
in France, neither is Bundy Rum so BYO.
We wont wax on about wine. It is there to be appreciated not
talked about. It ranges from good to bloody marvellous (except
for the stuff that comes in the brown plastic 5 litre barrels)
with the price tending to correspond with the length of the
name.
In Brittany they have compensated for their lack of
vineyards by inventing cider and calvados (kind of an apple
moonshine). Bretons work hard and play hard.
The Sieur
d'Arques winery in Limoux near Carcassonne (Languedoc-Roussillon
Region) extends a warm welcome to visiting Australians. |
Food
and Dining
The range of food available and dining options in France is pretty
impressive and its not as pricey as you might think, in fact eating
out can often be cheaper than in Oz.
There are quite a few foods and dishes
that may be new to you, but an adventurous palette will be rewarded.
See our food dictionary.
If you were to nominate one food that is most central to the French
diet that would be cheese (fromage). Workers at
smoko will eat wheels of cambembert like an Aussie would eat a pie
or an apple. The variety of cheeses available is staggering and
the price is very reasonable. Every region has its own varieties
and treats them the same way as wine. Names like Camembert, Brie
and Roquefort are named after the place in which they are made and
have strict rules about the naming of cheeses just like the controls
on wine. For an idea of what a big deal cheese is, see the International
Cheese Database.
A trip to the supermarket (hypermarche)
or even village market
is an adventure in itself.
Types of Restaurants
Restaurants cover a multitude of sins, but in this
case will be used to refer those that are listed in the Michelin
Guide. Usually they will have Menu Formule (formula menus) that
have a set price like 12, 17, 25 Euro. You get 3 to 4 courses with
a choice of 2 or 3 dishes per course. This represents pretty good
value as ordering individual dishes a la carte at the same restaurant
works out more expensive. When was the last time you had a four
course meal in an Australian restaurant for around 30 bucks?
Bistros are small, intimate, informal, usually moderately
priced restaurants. Traditionally, they were small family run restaurants
with a limited, but respectable menu.
Brasserie is French for brewery. Most started
life as large busy bars that served food, now they are more like
restaurants that do a good range of beers. Typically brasseries
are large, bustling, metropolitan establishments that serve several
daily specials.
Cafés are a French institution. Not just
somewhere for café and a croissant, many serve substantial
meals as well, such as entrecôte (steak) with french fries
(frites). Most cafés are bars as well and don’t seem
to be bound by silly concepts such as opening hours. If you want
a beer at 8.00am that’s quite ok.
Pizzerias and trattorias are common
in France, and one of the few ‘ethnic’ cuisines they
do well. They are usually a reliable and cheap option and most are
licensed.
Table d'hôte is a French phrase which literally
means host's table but is used to indicate a menu where multi-course
meals with limited choices are charged at a fixed rate. Such a menu
may also be called prix fixe ("fixed price") and consist
of several courses (usually appetizer, entree, main and dessert,
plus wine and/or coffee). This is usually very good value.
Relais
Routiers are small family run inns in the countryside
usually located along Routes Nationale that are popular with truckies
and travelling business people for lunch. They have a set menu that
changes daily and is usually very good. Typically you will get entree,
main, dessert, cheese and coffee plus a bottle of house wine for
about 10 Euro. Make sure you get there early because the good ones
are very popular. Most do dinner too. Les Routiers are real local's
joints so dont expect bi-lingual staff and a fancy menu.
Fast food: all the major food groups are represented
in France’s major cities, much to the resentment of traditionalists
who have been known to blow up or drive their tractor through the
odd McShite outlet. At least you can get a beer or wine to go with
your ‘Royale avec Cheese’. If you must have a burger,
why not try the local version called Quick.
Check out our short cut to restaurant
French.
If you
ever get invited to someone’s place for dinner it is usually
a great experience. They tend to go all out, starting with pre dinner
drinks (aperitif) usually beer and spirits. There is often a wine
to go with each course (up to 5) including dessert. The coup de
grace is the ‘digestif’, often Cognac, Armagnac or some
regionally derived rocket fuel (eau de vie – the water of
life). The theory is that this stuff gets in there and ‘vaporises’
most of the calories you’ve just consumed much the same way
that Drano does. There may be something to that theory as the rate
of obesity is far lower in France than the English speaking countries.
In Australia we have either lost or never had many of the dining
traditions of the Mediterranean countries.
These meals can go for hours and require some staying power, but
it gives a nice insight into French family life where there could
be three or four generations at the table discussing anything and
everything.
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